Surfing Safari

I think I'm finally getting the hang of this SUP surfing thing. Having exactly zero experience in watersports, I grew up in Iowa and lived in Colorado for 10 years, I'm learning quickly about swells, wind, tide and break direction. The ocean is much more complex than what you see on the surface. I've been spending time online looking at surf reports in an effort to learn more. It's not just about finding the best waves, it's about my safety as well. A few weeks back I got caught in windstorm on the water and barely made it back to shore, the experience was one of the scariest I've had in a long time. Out on the water there are few options, it's not like hiking, running or cycling where you can stop and call for help. Of course I knew that before hand, but when it's no longer a theoretical situation the point is driven home with a raised heart rate and awareness.

Even in "safe" conditions, the water can be dangerous. I've been caught in the whitewater, been tossed over the falls and had my fin take a gash of flesh from my shin. Getting pummeled and turned every which way is scary, especially with a pointy 11' board with three fins attached to your leg. It's also tiring as all hell. After a wipeout it's not easy to corral my 11' 1" board, get it pointed back out and get paddling out again. Too many times I'm caught in the crush zone, with waves pounding me backward.

Still, the thrill of catching waves is addictive. I am now able to pretty much catch waves at will, though I am VERY selective and have no ego pushing me to catch the biggest wave I can. Plus I've only ridden rights, I'm not ready to try going heel side just yet. My next move is to try and actually make some turns. As you can imagine, at 11' 1" my board isn't exactly snappy. I typically make one long, arcing turn and call it good.

Even with my rudimentary style, surfing is a rush I've not had elsewhere. I can still remember catching my first wave and realized just what surfers mean when they use the term "stoke", and believe me it's different than skiing stoke or mountain biking stoke. It's similar to skiing a great line, but the fluidity and fleeting nature of the wave make it more immediate. Plus, for someone like me who has to struggle to get the wave to begin with, it is imperative to make every wave count.